Rock Climbing in Latok IV, Karakoram Park, Pakistan

21181 ft/6456 m
Latok is a small cluster of dramatic rock peaks, belonging to the Panmah Muztagh and being a part of the central Karakoram range in Pakistan. The cluster lies in the east of the Ogre group which is dominated by Baintha Brakk.

The last summit of Latok group is Latok IV. It rests at the end of Baintha Lukpar Glacier, hosting two outstanding summits. The north (northwest) and the south (southwest).

The main summit is formed by a ridge of four summits. The north summit (southwest face) was first climbed just once in 1980 by a Japanese team that made it to the top through a central gully, in three days. On their descent they fell off 150 ft/45.7 m to crevasse suffering with great injuries.

The South Summit was climbed twice once in 1980 and the second in 1999 by the superfast ascent made by two men. The most popular route there is the “Czech Route”. It was first climbed through in 4 days in 2009. At this route you will start from the ABC in the Baintha Lukpar Glacier to higher camp.

The way is under the southwest face and it goes mostly on the right site in order to avoid crevasses. The entire route is gully. The first rocks appear after 200 – 300 m/656.2 – 984.3 ft from the left. Then the entire way is more or less in the center. At about 100 m/328.1 ft from the top, the overhanging chimney blocks the way up.

In order to avoid it, it is recommended to go on the rocks from the right side (key pitch). Then follow the one pitch with 5 m/16.4 ft 90 degrees ice chimney and the last one, the very nice mixed pitch to the summit ridge.

Once there, it looks kind of easy to go ahead for about 50 – 100 m/164 – 328.1 ft to reach the summit. No matter the route you choose if you have the appropriate experience or guidance, conquering the summit is most possibly a success story for you.