Mountaineering in Gasherbrum IV, Karakoram Park, Pakistan

26000 ft/7925 m
June to September
Gasherbrum is a pretty remote group of peaks, situated at the northeastern end of the Baltoro Glacier and placed in the Karakoram range of the Himalayas, on the border of the Gilgit - Baltistan controlled by Pakistan and the Chinese-administrated Shaksgam Valley. This massif contains three of the 8000 m/26246 ft high peaks of the world.

If there is a mountain harder to climb than K2 in Pakistan, this is Gasherbrum IV. The peak involves an extremely technical climb capacity. The objective dangers are many and the sheer rock faces are relentless. On top of that, its location is in a part of the world where weather conditions are very unstable.

This impressive mountain is the first of the big ones that you will come across while walking in the Baltoro area. It is situated in the intersection where the Baltoro glacier splits, making the Gasherbrum IV looming over everything around. The main attack routes are two.

The one is from the huge glacier fields, pretty close to camp of one of the G I, II, III and the other one is coming directly from a relatively low altitude from the Baltoro glacier. A number of full attempts has been taking place with very few of them, being successful ones.

The first ascent was accomplished in 1958 by a strong Italian group. The route followed went along the northeast ridge where a lot of hard technical climbing was encountered as well as snow storms.

Only two members of the team have reached the summit, however, the leader almost died during the ascent. If you wish to climb on that difficult ”montanuous beast”, it is suggested to consult with a local school that will help you to overcome all obstacles and successfully reach the summit.