Mountaineering in Laila Peak, Hushe Valley, Pakistan

20341 ft/6200 m
June to September
Laila Peak is a mountain, situated in Hushe Valley near the Gondogoro Glacier which belongs to the Karakoram range in Pakistan. Its spear shape is very distinctive and it sets out from other mountains in the area. At its northwest face lies a slope of 45 degrees in more than 1500 vertical m/4921 ft high.

With its peak forming a perfect needle shape, Laila Peak in Hushe Valley is one of the most beautiful mountains in Pakistan. This peak is synonymous with the west face that drops down the mountains at almost uniform gradient and forms a giant ramp. The eastern and northern sides consist of contrasting steep granite.

The location of the mountain is at the east of Gondogoro valley and west of the Chogolisa Valley, situated in the Masherbrum mountains of Baltistan. The peak is visible after crossing the Gondogoro La from K2 and Concordia base camp.

Like the majority of the peaks, the first attempts to be climbed have taken place in the 80’s and 90’s, although they were illegal without the necessary permits issued for the climbers.

The first legal ascent was made by an Italian team in 1997. All previous ascents were completely illegal. All the attempts were made in Alpine style. With almost 1500 m/4921 ft of ascent, most of the mountaineers choose to be via on routes then the summit and descent.

The climbing difficulty grade is medium with an inclination of less then 55 degrees. At the lower side of the climb, the area is mixed, giving away progressively to more and more ice towards the summit. On the descent, you can ski but not from the summit.

It is highly recommended to start skiing after 120 – 140 m/394 – 459.3 ft down as, due to the icy conditions, skiing from the top is suicidal. Trust the local schools and you will have an unforgettable mountaineering experience.