- ABOUT THE SPOT
Ice Climbing in The Pencil Route, Wenatchee, Washington USA
The Pencil Route is located across the Wenatchee river from the highway, high in Tumwater Canyon. In order to get there, you must first paddle across the river with an inflatable craft and then walk to the Falls Creek drainage. Once you get to the Pencil Falls, you will find a three pitch route.
The first route is perhaps the most difficult and classic route to climb. It is also considered to be one of the Washington’s best waterfall ice climb. The skill level, required to climb Pencil Falls, is grade WI 5. The route has at least 100 ft/30.5 m of vertical climb, with good quality, thick ice and protection. Once you reach the top at 4900 ft/1493 m, climb down on the left as you face the route, follow a ramp and at the end of this ramp, you will find a rappel station.
Pencil Falls route is an exciting adventure for ice climbers, that starts from the moment you get out of your car and have to carry all your gear through an icy and big river. Climbers should take two 196 ft/60 m ropes, ice tools, ice protection and snowshoes with them. Always check the weather conditions before you choose this climb due to high avalanche danger on the area.