Mountaineering in Gasherbrum I, Karakoram Park, Pakistan

26469 ft / 8068 m
June to September
Gasherbrum is a pretty remote group of peaks, situated at the northeastern end of the Baltoro Glacier and placed in the Karakoram range of the Himalayas, on the border of the Gilgit - Baltistan controlled by Pakistan and the Chinese-administrated Shaksgam Valley. This massif contains three of the 8000 m/26246 ft high peaks of the world.

Contrary to general belief, Gasherbrum doesn’t mean shinning wall. Its name comes from the Balti words rgasha which means beautiful and brum that means mountain. Gasherbrum I is also known as K5 and Hidden Peak, a name given in reference to its extreme remoteness.

It is also the 11th highest peak in the world and the second highest between the Karakoram mountains. The mountain is one of the four 8000 m/26246 ft high peaks, situated in a tight cluster on the upper reaches of the Baltoro glacier. This is also the main access route to the mountains, cutting through the center of the Karakoram range.

Gasherbrum I is the least popular peak among the Gasherburm group and it has still less than 200 ascents. The spot stays in the 10th rank of the ascent list of the 8000 m/26246 ft high. This peak counts the least number of deaths and this can be explained due to the fact that only very experienced climbers dare to climb this extremely difficult mountain.

One of the most common ways to climb the spot is to attack on the western side. All routes there lead to “The Japanese Couloir” which is located on-top of the north west face. The first ascent was made in 1958 through Via Spur Peak and then via the long south east ridge to the summit.

This mountain has something unique. The first winter ascent took place there in the winter of 2011 – 2012. If you wish to try mountaineering on such a difficult mountain setting, it is suggested to do it with professional guidance of the local schools.