
Arco, Garda Lake
The north part of the Garda Lake, in Trentino, has become one of the most visited places in the world for rock climbing. Trento’s side of Garda offers more than 2000 routes of climbing options.
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Carn Dearg Buttress gives many worthwhile routes on the north face. Most of the climbs are 6 to 10 pitches long. It has clear square cut slabs overlaps and walls. The buttress is steepening on the right. At this steep rounded wall, you should take care of the block ground higher up.
The whole ascent will be made on excellent clean rock. More specifically, the north west face contains a 100 m/328 ft high vertical wall, which is slightly overhanging. This is where a series of high standard modern routes are concentrated. At this point, there is a central abseil, where all the routes come to an end.
It is highly recommended to attack the rock early in the morning, since striking sun light afterwards may prevent you from performing at ease your climbing until early afternoon hours. As for the essential gear, two ropes of 60 m/196 ft long, a full set of nuts, a good variety of cams, around 10 quick-draws of slings and screw-gates and a couple of chocks will be handy for attempting your venture.
The north part of the Garda Lake, in Trentino, has become one of the most visited places in the world for rock climbing. Trento’s side of Garda offers more than 2000 routes of climbing options.
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