www.ragnilecco.com/author/matteo-della-bordella/


Date of birth:
1984.07.04
Hometown:
Varese, Italy
Sponsors:
Adidas, Kong, DF-Sport Specialist,
Hobbies:
Sport climbing, Kayaking, taking pictures, public speaking and writing
Favourite athletes:
Tommy Caldwell, Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva, Stephan Glowacz

BIO

My Dad introduced me to climbing and mountaineering when I was 12, and for the following 10 years he has been my main partner. We climbed together many classic routes all over the Alps, in the dolomites, Wenden, Mont Blanc etc…

In 2005 I had my first experience of opening a new route in the mountains, ground up, with a machine drill; in the following years with the fellow Fabio Palma we opened and free climbed 3 amazing new routes on the perfect limestone of Wendenstocke (Portami Via, Coelophysis, Infinite Jest). After many years of climbing in the Alps I started travelling abroad.

In 2010 I went for the first time to Patagonia and fell in love with that place and those mountains; since that year every winter I am going back. I have had also other important trips such as the one to Yosemite in 2012, when I free climbed El Cap, the one to Pakistan in 2013, when we opened a new route on Uli Biaho tower (6109m) and the amazing adventure of summer 2014 to East Greenland, where after more than 200km of kayaking we opened an amazing new free-climbing route on the virgin North face of Shark’s tooth.

"Matteo Della Bordella"

Since 2006 I’m proudly a member of the group “Ragni di Lecco” and in 2008 I joined the Italian Academic Alpine Club (CAAI). I’ve got a master degree in industrial engineering and worked for some years as a researcher in the Information Systems field.


CAREER HIGHLIGHTS

  • 2005: Marmolada, route “through the fish” onsight in one day with my Dad “Portami via”, Wenden, 7c+ max expo, new route
  • 2008: “Coelophysis”, Wenden, 8a+ max 650 meters, new route
  • 2009: First extra-european expedition to Greenland (Fox Jaw), 2 new routes opened
  • 2011: Many new route in the alps i.e. “Infinite Jest”, wenden; “Non è un paese per vecchi” and” Il mito della caverna”, Canton ticino
  • 2012: Free climbed El Capitan, Yosemite for the route “freerider”, 7c max
  • 2013: First ascent of Torre Egger west face, Patagonia 1200m 7a/A2/WI4
  • 2013: First ascent of Uli biaho south-west face, Pakistan, 700m 6b/A0
  • 2014: First ascent of Shark’s tooth north face, Greenland, 900m, 7b+ onsight, by fair means with approach by kayak
  • 2015: New variation on the Casarotto Pillar of Fitz Roy, Patagonia, 1350m, 7a+

INTERVIEW 2015.03.14

What are you looking for to accomplish?

Explore and free climb big walls all over the world, possibly in wild and remote places with a clean style and a “by fair means” approach.

What would be your greatest achievement?

I have lots of dreams of what could be my greatest achievements. For sure it’s always going to be the next mountain, the next big wall to climb, the next big project.

"Matteo Della Bordella"

What kind of difficulties does your sport’s performance involve?

Dealing with weather and conditions in the mountain, travelling and staying away from home for a long time, finding the right partners, finding new walls or lines to be climbed, being able to climb those walls in a fair style.

"Matteo Della Bordella"

What makes you feel satisfied when performing your sport?

The challenge between myself and the mountains, the fact that you put yourself into the game and give everything you have to reach a summit. On this kind of ascent you’re never sure of the result.

Where do you practice your techniques when being alone?

If I’m alone I go bouldering in the gym, or do aerobic training: running or kayaking. I almost never climb in the mountains alone, I’ve tried it but I don’t  like it.

What do you do during your training which is key to your success?

"Matteo Della Bordella"

Try to imagine myself already in the middle of the action on a big wall.

What are you most nervous about when competing?

I never compete.

Who would you say is your biggest fan and why?

My Dad, who shared with me some of the best moments of my life in the mountains.

"Matteo Della Bordella"

What is the best piece of advice you have been ever given?

Believe in your dreams.

What are your future plans?

Visiting new areas and climbing new mountains, and like every year, going back to Patagonia!

"Matteo Della Bordella"

What are your tips for those who begin now?

Do what you like and put passion in what you do.

"Matteo Della Bordella"