Since April 2014 I started to get focused on speed ascents, starting my project “7 summits in speed” with Kilimanjaro where I could make a new world record in ascending, descending and in the total time of 6hrs42min versus Kilian’s Record (2010) of 7hr14min. But why Kilimanjaro? I had to organize expeditions to guide so I talked to the company if I could have the chance to make the speed ascent. I was very surprised of the result so as soon as I came back to Ecuador I already had my flight booked for Aconcagua, where I had also a group to lead in February 2015.
Later on I heard that Kilian was going, too. I started to race in trail running events, I felt very good, could win the events in Ecuador and Chile and focus the entire month of December in altitude training, climbing peaks of 5 and 6 thousand meters very often and sleeping a couple of nights over 4 thousand meters as well as doing long distance trainings in the altitude. On January I raced again to be prepared for the rhythm. We flew 2 and half weeks in advance to Mendoza, Argentina to get very well acclimatized as the weather is completely different than in Ecuador, much dryer.
Me and my team made 1 speed ascent from the base camp Plaza Argentina to the summit in approx. 5hrs pushing (distance ascent approx. 10km, up and down approx. 20km 4300-6962-4300). 3 Days later we summited with our group of clients and left the National Park for recovering after 100km and many days at altitude and 10 nights in a tent. After 2 days of recovery we went for the record, I’m so happy everything went perfect without any health complication.
The weather was ok, very cold and windy but sunny. On the way back to Horcones it started to rain and snow, the temperature dropped down. After 11hrs and 57min I arrived to the gate, happy for my team, tired but in very good conditions, without any health problems. The guards were waiting for us to make the record official. We got the letter and went back to the hotel to celebrate the record. Now I’m back home in Quito. Tomorrow I will race in a vertical km race as it is a charity race.
We want to continue with our project “7 summits in speed” and we think the next mountain would be 2016 Mt. Kinley.
I would like to complete the 7 summits in speed records if the health, the economy and the destiny will allow me to do it.
Everest in Speed Record.
It is an expensive sport, I would like to travel with my entire team. Other difficulties would be health, if you are training constantly in the altitude.
When you can come back home with a new story to tell and without any complications. I feel free on the mountain, much more than guiding when I’m going to my limit.
Yes, my descent skills I use to train every week during my training.
Vertical training, altitude camps and trainings, biking, living at the altitude, a mix of all but the most important thing, not to follow training, doing what I want when I wake up.
Not to be successful with beating myself, I train for me and compete for me. I always take care about the others during competitions, on the records is just me against the nature.
You race against you, even leading, never stop to give your best (Galo Tamayo, a Mountain bike Legend in Ecuador who is a great friend of mine).
7 summits, Antarctic, Vertical km World Championships, and so on but never stop working in my tourist agency www.cumbretours.com