www.hansjoerg-auer.at


Date of birth:
1984.02.18
Hometown:
Ötztal, Austria
Sponsors:
The North Face, Ötztal, La Sportiva, Smith Optics, Edelrid, Komperdell,
Hobbies:
Paragliding, Running, Skiing

BIO

"Auer Hansjorg © The North Face"

Born in 1984. Certified teacher for Mathematics and Sports and also Mountain Guide. At the age of 12 he started climbing. First of all classic alpinism in the western parts of the Alps, expeditions to Patagonia and to the Karakorum Mountains in Pakistan.

Reaching a higher level in sport-climbing he managed to climb many repeats, first ascents and first free ascents of numerous alpine routes in the world; from the towers of the Dolomites to the faces of Black Canyon/Colorado and to the big walls of El Capitan/Yosemite Valley and Baffin Island/Canada.

His greatest achievements are the Free Solo ascent of the „Fish“ on the Southface of Marmolada in 2007 and the first ascent of Kunyang Chhish East (7400m) in the Karakorum Mountains in 2013 via the 2700m high Southwestface. Both milestones in the history of alpinism. The goal of his adventures is to be prepared in sport-climbing at his best level and to use his creativity to put high difficulties into alpine terrain.


CAREER HIGHLIGHTS

  • : Free Solo Tempi Moderni (6c/ 800 m), Fish (7b+/ 850 m) both on Marmolada/ITA and Locker vom Hocker (7a/ 350 m) and Bayrischer Traum (7a/ 400 m) both on Schüsselkarspitze/AUT
  • : First Free Ascent of „Hallucinogen Wall“ (5.13+/650m) in Black Canyon/Colorado/USA
  • : First Ascent of Bruderliebe (8b/+/800m) on Marmolada Southface/ITA
  • : First Ascent of The Door (8b/650m) on Belly Tower in Perfection Valley – Baffin Island/CAN
  • : First Free Ascent of L’ultimo dei Paracadutisti (8b+/ 650 m) on Marmolada Southwestface/ITA
  • : First Ascent of Kunyang Chhish East (7400 m) via the 2700 m high Southwestface in the Karakorum Mountains/Pakistan

INTERVIEW 2015.06.03

What are you looking for to accomplish?

I´m looking for untouched walls and mountains all over the world. I want to push alpinism and climbing in that way.

"Auer Hansjorg © The North Face"

The key of success is to have a strong level in climbing and put it up to the big walls and high mountains. Furthermore a strong mind and the belief that it´s possible. The blank spots on the map are getting less, but some hard projects are still there.

What would be your greatest achievement?

Two of my greatest achievements are the Fish Free Solo Climb in 2007 and the first ascent of Kunyang Chish East in the Karakorum Mountains. Those two things are hard to top, but who knows.

What kind of difficulties does your sport’s performance involve?

Physical and psychological strength. The psychological strength is getting more important being on expeditions and high altitude mountains.

What makes you feel satisfied when performing your sport?

"Auer Hansjorg © The North Face"

Going out, having fun and coming back with a project done. No matter how big it was. Could be a 20m sport-climbing project or a long and challenging expedition. But for sure, having a longtime dream completed makes me more satisfied.

Where do you practice your techniques when being alone?

It´s mainly the mental part. The physiological part is the base anyway. I listen to myself a lot, try to be honest and start doing something alone, when I get the perfect feeling for the right moment.

What do you do during your training which is key to your success?

It depends what I´m training for. Am I supposed to go to a big mountain, I train a lot of endurance, meaning trail running. If I have a rock climbing project, I train the climbing side, means sport-climbing and indoor bouldering to get some power.

"Auer Hansjorg © The North Face"

For me it’s also really important to make some smaller projects before leaving for a big one to get the feeling that I´m in good shape.

What are you most nervous about when competing?

I´m not competing at all.

Who would you say is your biggest fan and why?

I never thought about that and I guess it´s not important to think about it.

"Auer Hansjorg © The North Face"

What is the best piece of advice you have been ever given?

Take it easy, keep it low and there is something else in life than sport.

What are your future plans?

Be thankful, keep the spirit up, be creative in searching goals, stay healthy, frostbite on my fingers and toes are a ‘no-go’ ;-) … and never lose my passion. And for sure getting my projects done …

Coming back from Alaska right now, leaving to Siberia soon before hoping to go to Nepal/Himalaya in fall – life is rolling …

What are your tips for those who begin now?

Practice your sport in an authentic way, be patient when times are tough and never forget the passion with which all started. Do your sport first of all for yourself so you will never lose the desire to set off. #neverstopexploring 

"Auer Hansjorg © The North Face"